my solo Athens adventure

Many of you know that a few sad things happened to me these past few months – I said goodbye to both my beloved father and my dog Holly. Sad yes, but also liberating to be suddenly free of caring duties! So, I followed an urge to travel somewhere by myself, to escape pre-Christmas fuss and I arranged a week off-season in Athens. (My husband Dermot – normally my fun travelling companion – had commitments at home including his 95-year old father.)

As my trip draws to a close, I can say that it’s been thoroughly fun, exciting and active! Also, I simply could not have done as many things as I did without being strong due to my regular Pilates practice.  Having good mobility and balance gives one confidence to negotiate, for example, uneven footpaths – of which there are many in Athens! This trip reinforces my belief in value of keeping strong so I can have many more adventures and travel independently when I want to.

I had been to Greece frequently before, for first time in my early 20s, but always in company and never when you can walk around in pleasant temperatures without crowds and queues.

My first step was to book flights, Sunday to Sunday in off-season Athens! Then, the nerves hit … would I get lost, would I be lonely, would I get robbed? Nonetheless, I found courage reading accounts from other solo travellers so I booked accommodation and, a few days later, a group lesson in traditional Greek cooking, plus a city and sea bike tour of Athens.

It was surreal getting coach by myself to Dublin airport for 3.30am. Naturally, I was deeply tired by time I got to my Airbnb 10 hours later in Gypseli, a gritty but enchanting suburb not too far from the city centre. But the brilliant light and warm sunshine filled me with joy! The first day was about orientating myself, finding nearest metro, buying breakfast supplies and so on.

I filled most days with activities – such as ‘free walking tour’ (pay what you deem guide is worth), a 2.5 hour hike in nearby hills (went by taxi to start point) where I had picnic lunch of spinach pie, tsatziki and Greek salad left over from my cooking lesson, and an amazing 28km bike ride (e-bike!) on the city’s only cycle path to riviera where I swam in sea on 20 Dec (warmer than Ireland in summer!). An interesting fact about my bike tour guide Kostas was that I was two years older than his mother! But I could still ride fast and keep up with him; not bad, eh?

I spent lots of time alone too. I browsed local shops (plenty of second-hand ones). I read (recommendation below), listened to poetry, soaked in the warm winter sunshine on my balcony. And, yes, being mid-winter, I slept a good deal. 

Most memorable were the enriching conversations I had with other travellers and locals who crossed my path; I ended up having lunch or dinner and chatting sometimes at length with strangers, one of whom I feel sure I’ll meet again; we met in the Hammam (Turkish baths) and gelled as kindred spirits. I met a variety of people from the US, UK, Egypt, Israel and of course Greek.

Athens is a friendly place, has a low crime rate and is regarded as a safe but I followed advice to keep my valuables close and to avoid being in dark alleys alone. It’s got great restaurants, plenty of historical and archeological interest, and lots of sunshine ☀️

I am proud and happy that I got out of my comfort zone and overcame my anxiety about travelling solo for a week. It was empowering in a new way. I encourage you to be brave, do new things! And keep doing Pilates to stay strong so you can 😉

[Book recommendation: ‘There are rivers in the sky’ by Elif Shafak]

P.S. Thankful to have family to come home to. I admit I did not particularly like eating out alone in restaurants in the evenings…..